It’s not as if I haven’t done the journey a few times recently, but the speed of the train to the Lakes these days still takes me by surprise. We southerners tend to think of the West Country as accessible for a weekend, but not the north. Wrong: hardly had we settled down, with laptops, papers, bags and coats scattered about us, than our arrival at Oxenholme was announced, causing us to stumble from our carriage in comic-book chaos, hurling our possessions on to the platform.
Thereafter, a thick blanket of peace descended, and I struggle to find a single negative thing to say about this seductive place to stay. You don’t even have to hire a car: one is laid on to take you to and from the station.
And now – the reason for my latest visit – the Cunliffes have transformed Knipe Tarn, their private former fishing lodge set on its own tree-fringed lake a mile from Gilpin Lodge, into a six-bedroom mini-hotel known as Lake House. Barney’s brother, Ben, was the talented architect; Christine, a human dynamo forever tweaking, changing, improving, freshening, is in charge of the look and ambience of the place, as at the main hotel.
You breakfast at Lake House, dine at Gilpin Lodge. A chauffeur takes you between the two. It’s expensive, but worth every penny for the tranquillity that pervades and the impeccable mix of stylish luxury and private-home intimacy. It has been superbly done and includes an elegant, bookish drawing room leading to an open-plan kitchen and sun-filled conservatory and six unimpeachable bedrooms with good furniture and armchairs, lovely lamps, shelves of books and objects and piles of the latest magazines, plus iPads and iPods and classy televisions.
There are flowers everywhere, charmingly arranged; a homely utility-room-cum-office has stairs to a light-filled indoor pool and sauna, and a terrace by the tarn with hot tub, outdoor heaters, deck chairs and private corners.
Guests can stroll up to Cat Crag, with a 360 degree panorama stretching as far as the Isle of Man, but many simply stay put – they’ve even been seen rowing on the lake in their dressing gowns. Then, it’s time to change for dinner and set off for Gilpin Lodge, as glamorous yet cosy as Lake House. It may take a while for fellow guests to start chatting, but soon everyone, from Geordie diva on six-inch stilettos to roly-poly matriarch in M & S knitwear, melds together, united by the sheer excellence of the place and the sense of peace and luxury.
How it rates
Rooms TTTTT
Glamorous yet homely
Service TTTT
You may find Barney washing up; you will lack for nothing
Character TTTT
Lake House: “Gilpin Lodge with dressing gowns”
Food & drink TTTT
Fine dinner at Gilpin; superb, breakfasts at Lake House
Value for money TTTTT
Added value for peace, professionalism and spoiling extras
WHAT TO DO
The Lakes are on your doorstep but much of the joy of Lake House is to stay put. Nothing much more relaxing than an in-room massage from the excellent Amanda, with the sun pouring through the windows and the sound of real birdsong instead of pan pipes or other mood music. Or row on the lake or stroll round it or walk up to Cat’s Crag or farther afield. You are 10 minutes’ drive from the ferry on Windermere and Windermere Golf course, with stunning view, is almost opposite Gilpin Lodge.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
A two-hour walk takes in the Brown Horse, a local pub with great grub, where all the produce comes from its estate, Winster . A day-long walk could take you to the amazing viewpoint from Gummer’s How, then to lunch at the excellent Mason’s Arms on Strawberry Bank, then back through the Lyth Valley, famed for damsons, to home and a cream tea.
Do you have anything to add to Fiona Duncan’s review of Gilpin Lodge? If so post your comments below.
Here is what you said about last week’s review of The Nare, Veryan-in-Roseland:
“We stayed at The Nare last year and the overall impression was of an over-priced Sixties time warp. The staff were very helpful, rooms and food were satisfactory, but to describe the last as traditional must include acracked WC and bath. There are many south-west seaside, luxury hotels where you could stay at half the price.”
Peter Kettell
“The Nare is worth every penny. Fiona is right in at least one respect: the hotel understands its clientele. Moreover, its clientele understands the hotel, which is why the bill is not the problem Fiona thinks it is.”
Cyril Burton
“Fiona Duncan doesn’t mention Bettye Gray’s book, ‘Oh get on!’, which tells the story of four generations of her family who all ran hotels in Cornwall, starting with her great-aunt Minnie, who opened a boarding house in Newquay in 1908. It’s not necessarily a must-read for those who don’t know this part of Cornwall, but for those who do and for guests of The Nare, it’s fascinating.”
Mary Visconti
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